Saturday, 3 October 2026
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Mores

Saw this photograph by Henri Cartier-Bresson (1) and remembered one of my favourite Parisian eateries, or rather brasseries: Lipp, on the Boulevard Saint-Germain

Observations · Heritage · Mores · Paris

Saw this photograph by Henri Cartier-Bresson (1) and remembered one of my favourite Parisian eateries, or rather brasseries: Lipp, on the Boulevard Saint-Germain

Léonard Lipp opened it after the Franco-Prussian War, when he left occupied Alsace and came to Paris. He brought his recipes with him: sauerkraut, sausages, cold beer. This was Alsatian cooking in its most direct form, hearty, unpretentious and at a reasonable price. The Saint-Germain quarter of that

By Alexandr Radayev