A folder of drawings and sketches for the autumn-winter 1989-90 collection sold for 18 thousand euros at the Martin Margiela archive sale

The folder of 129 pages consists mainly of sketches with facsimile outlines and hand-drawn details, supplemented by files containing small facsimiles of designs and technical descriptions for a little-known Margiela project. In the 1980s it was typical for factories to produce their own lines and to hire outside designers to consult on particular brands. Graziella Picozzi, who headed Deni Cler, noticed Martin's talent and suggested that he work on an idea of his own: a brand without a name, to be known only by an exclamation mark.

Between 1988 and 1989, Graziella and Martin collaborated over four seasons, before Martin founded his eponymous label: Maison Martin Margiela. These developments demonstrate Martin's progressive tailoring philosophy, but also retain a certain style reminiscent of his time working for Jean-Paul Gaultier.

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At the close of the Strugatskys' "Roadside Picnic" the Golden Sphere is asked for this: "Happiness for everybody, free, and let nobody go away unsatisfied!" I do not promise to leave no one aggrieved, but the digest really does come free

At the close of the Strugatskys' "Roadside Picnic" the Golden Sphere is asked for this: "Happiness for everybody, free, and let nobody go away unsatisfied!" I do not promise to leave no one aggrieved, but the digest really does come free. So, here is the

Frederic Leighton

Frederic Leighton. “Daedalus and Icarus”, 1869 Daedalus warns his son not to climb too high: the heat of the sun may melt the wax, but Icarus is already gazing into the distance, and the lamentations of a foolish old man interest him not in the least

A folder of drawings and sketches for the autumn-winter 1989-90 collection sold for 18 thousand euros at the Martin Margiela archive sale

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At the close of the Strugatskys' "Roadside Picnic" the Golden Sphere is asked for this: "Happiness for everybody, free, and let nobody go away unsatisfied!" I do not promise to leave no one aggrieved, but the digest really does come free

Frederic Leighton

Attempts to resolve the problems of many years of uncontrolled mass migration

Characters from Gogol's "Petersburg Tales" on the pedestal of the monument to Nikolai Gogol on Nikitsky Boulevard, photograph of the 1960s